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| Aprilia RS 125 engine 122 |
Aprilia rs 125 Rotax 122 engine removal
Aprilia RS125 engine removal refitting video
Aprilia RS125 top end rebuild
video
Top end removal pictorial (video)
Tools required:
5 and 6mm allen key
11mm ring spanner
13mm spanner
screw driver
stanley knife blade
mallet
needle nose pliers
10mm spanner
Additional key items:
2 stroke oil (I recommend castrol TTS)
A clean rag
window silicon, ideal for the o rings when they do not stay in place
New Spark plug
Full Top end rebuild items:
New cylinder or reconditioned cylinder
New piston
New piston rings
New little end bearing
New C clips
Top end gasket set
First off you need to remove the tank , once you have that off, remove the airbox (not easy)this will give little more space to work in you can remove the top engine mount .
Now you have even more room to work in you can go ahead and remove the carb/reedblock/manifold assembly in one go, you need to remove the 5x 5mm allen key bolts from the manifold then the whole lot will slide out and can be moved to the side of the bike out of the way , this was you can keep the throttle cable and oi line connected to carb.
undo coolant drain bolt the coolant ,as you will be removing the cylinder head and water jacket and these a filled with coolant and can be messy . There will be a drain screw on the LHS crank case cover, at the front, it will say DRAIN above it.
Tools required:
5 and 6mm allen key
11mm ring spanner
13mm spanner
screw driver
stanley knife blade
mallet
needle nose pliers
10mm spanner
Additional key items:
2 stroke oil (I recommend castrol TTS)
A clean rag
window silicon, ideal for the o rings when they do not stay in place
New Spark plug
Full Top end rebuild items:
New cylinder or reconditioned cylinder
New piston
New piston rings
New little end bearing
New C clips
Top end gasket set
First off you need to remove the tank , once you have that off, remove the airbox (not easy)this will give little more space to work in you can remove the top engine mount .
Now you have even more room to work in you can go ahead and remove the carb/reedblock/manifold assembly in one go, you need to remove the 5x 5mm allen key bolts from the manifold then the whole lot will slide out and can be moved to the side of the bike out of the way , this was you can keep the throttle cable and oi line connected to carb.
undo coolant drain bolt the coolant ,as you will be removing the cylinder head and water jacket and these a filled with coolant and can be messy . There will be a drain screw on the LHS crank case cover, at the front, it will say DRAIN above it.
Once you have drain coolant out , remove the HT lead and the spark plug.
Now remove the 4x5mm water jacket bolts so you can remove the water jacket, which will reveal the cylinder head, there will be 5x13mm bolts, which may be tight to undo, undo these each diagonally opposite to stop any possible cylinder head warping. Dispose of any gaskets or o rings, also clean the surfaces where the gaskets have been very carefully with a stanley knife blade.
Now you need to remove you PV from the cylinder, or blanking plate if you have a restricted bike (2x5mm allen key bolts).
Now the cylinder itself is ready to be removed ,try to avoid small parts falling into the crank case if you do engine removal and swilling out with old diesel will be required
, first remove the 4 bolts at the base of the cylinder (11mm spanner, also remove them in a diagonal fashion) once they are removed, lift the cylinder off the crank case making sure its going up straight and not at an angle, lift it about 25mm and stuff a rag into the crank case tightly t avoid any debree falling into the crank case.
Once the cylinder is out of the way you can begin to remove the C clips which are are at the side of the piston (set in about 5mm) once these are gone remove the piston pin / gudeon pin this can be tight so be carful when tapping and removing it brace piston if tapping is required once pin is removed, the piston will come off the con rod and you can remove the little end bearing.
Now remove the 4x5mm water jacket bolts so you can remove the water jacket, which will reveal the cylinder head, there will be 5x13mm bolts, which may be tight to undo, undo these each diagonally opposite to stop any possible cylinder head warping. Dispose of any gaskets or o rings, also clean the surfaces where the gaskets have been very carefully with a stanley knife blade.
Now you need to remove you PV from the cylinder, or blanking plate if you have a restricted bike (2x5mm allen key bolts).
Now the cylinder itself is ready to be removed ,try to avoid small parts falling into the crank case if you do engine removal and swilling out with old diesel will be required
, first remove the 4 bolts at the base of the cylinder (11mm spanner, also remove them in a diagonal fashion) once they are removed, lift the cylinder off the crank case making sure its going up straight and not at an angle, lift it about 25mm and stuff a rag into the crank case tightly t avoid any debree falling into the crank case.
Once the cylinder is out of the way you can begin to remove the C clips which are are at the side of the piston (set in about 5mm) once these are gone remove the piston pin / gudeon pin this can be tight so be carful when tapping and removing it brace piston if tapping is required once pin is removed, the piston will come off the con rod and you can remove the little end bearing.
Aprilia RS125 top end rebuild video pictorial
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